Wave Surfing Occurrence, History and Spread
Saying that the Polynesians use the gliding movement in the waves (surf) to accelerate the water by means of a board, which has deep roots in both pleasure, competition, self-assertion (social status) and even worship and their cultures, and perhaps it was the first sport/nature/extreme sport. resources exist.
There is a man on the board with rock-hewn pictures dated 12 years.
According to Research and Resources, Wave Surfing is estimated to have a history of 5000 years.
It is said that they prefer to be in balance and harmony by using the power of this nature rather than dominating such waves in their lives associated with the ocean and maritime.
Aloha Spirit
Polynesian Poly = very nesas = Islander / Hawaii, Easter Islands, New Zealand There are island teams in the triangle.
There is information/findings that surfing is also done in Chile/Chile and Peru coasts. Surfing was done with swimming aids / raft obtained from local material Saz.
But throughout, the Hawaiian Island team is connected and known for surfing.
Thrones were chosen by giving special rituals and sacrifices from the trunks of Koa, Bread or Williwilli trees, cut and carved.
The boards are:
Paipo/ small Belly- Bodyboard
(Children, Teenagers,
of women)
Alaia / midlenghtShort board
(Men, Women)
Olo / 7-8m
Clan chiefs/Kings
boards
along with that , only
designated coves belonging to the kings
there is also. Taboo to others/
western world first
1777 James Banks, who was in the crew of James Cook's Endeavour, reported his observations about Wave surfing, known as William Anderson's first witness and written evidence, admiring expression in some sources.
Surfing is banned with Missionary and Christianization.
But the main cause of white immigration and infectious diseases, the Hawaiian population, which was 800,000 before, declined to 40,000.
American writers
When Mark Twain said (This sport can only be done by Hawaiian natives, it should only be done by themselves.) He instills and teaches JackLondon and his wife to surf. In their travel books, the two authors talk about this activity rather than the beauty of the islands, and the Hawaiian Islands turn into a tourist attraction.
George Freeth
In the early 1900s, George Freeth, who is half Hawaiian and half Irish, is a surfer and a very good swimmer. Lays the foundation for the first Lifeguard/Lifeguard organization on the Islands. He educates many people, including writers George Freeth, who is known for this, and in the production of Pacific Railroad as “The Man Walking on Water” by Huntington Steel, he performs surfing demonstrations for advertising purposes at the station openings.
Their ride at Redondo, Huntington Beach Pier is seen as the beginning of wave surfing to the US mainland.
In this process, he rescues the 8-person crew of a capsized ship one by one in severe waves with his surfboard.
Alexander Hume Ford wanted to attract white surfers to the islands by propagating the surfing Hawaiian Islands.
Its aim is to enlarge the white population and include the Island team in the USA.
With the interest in sports, the first hotel opens on Waikiki beach.
It's called MoanaSurfRiderResort/founded 1901.
Duke Kohanamoku,
Lifeguard, Olympic swimmer, Actor, Surfer and Surf instructor.
Duke, who was in a brother/MentorTutor relationship with George Freeth, is known as the best swimmer of the time. He makes a difference with his own foot flapping technique.
After winning two gold medals at the 1912 Stockholm Olympics, he was not in the right place because he was given the wrong time to start a third race. While the authorities want to start the race, all athletes, especially Australian athletes, oppose it. They say they want to compete against the best in the world. Duke is searched and found, the race begins and Duke wins.
Australian athlete invites Duke to his hometown with a call to train us
Duke goes to Australia. Leads Lifeguard organizations and trains their teams. The native chooses a tree and sculpts a surfboard. He was the first on the continent to surf in Sydney/Freshwater Bay.
Australia meets surfing.
Tom Blake
In a relationship with Duke Kahanamoku, brother/sister Mentor Tutor.
Duke calls TomBlake to Hawaii. He doesn't want to start over. Then he goes and never leaves the islands again.
Meanwhile, it gives a new direction with hollow board boards.
The first cut fin/keel attaches to the board and advances it further.
On top of that, he also attaches a sail to the board to climb the lineup more easily and lays the foundation for windsurfing.
It creates the life-safer buba as we know it.
Writer, poet, philosopher can be said.
Long time
When using balsa boards of 10 to 12 feet and above. Boards with a weight of 35-40kg and a length of 10-12 feet maintain their dominance for a long time.
Robert Simmons appears in the mid-1940s.
A bone tumor is detected in his leg at a young age.
While supporting his treatment with nutrition and sports / cycling, he meets wave surfing.
His arm and shoulder were injured in a traffic accident.
He also reads at California Tech and is interested in boat design and materials used in aircraft construction.
It uses fiberglass resin with PU foam inside to make up for its own handicaps. The board uses a curved bottom and double Fin in the design, resulting in lightweight yet speed-oriented boards.
Bob Simmons laid the foundation for Boards used in our modern era.
1953 He goes into the waves on the beach of Windansea and can't get out again.
1954 Surf movies and almost everything surfing has a blast.
An industry is born. With the movie Fidget, the current Surf trend begins.
For a long time, Simmons boards swirled around the market, fell into the hands of repair Shapers, inspected, and the material and construction found their place as the new standard.
Velzy says: (Pig board /Shaper right from the late 50's-60's) Bob made amazing boards, light and fast. But I added the ability to give direction to them.
Author: Tarkan Kutup / Northern Sun Boards Founder and Wave Surfer
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